Gabrielle Jones PassionArt

Happy New Year 2012!

2012-01-01T02:11:00.001-08:00

Thought I'd post a few pics of the fireworks on the Sydney Harbour bridge at last night's new years eve celebrations. A rainbow was one of the symbols decorating the bridge during the display - lets hope it's a portent of the pot of gold you all truly deserve this year. happy New year and thanks for reading!

Gerhard Richter Videos

2011-12-29T15:56:00.000-08:00

Just added some videos (see list at left) on Gerhard Richter - painting and drawing. Enjoy!

Landscape Drawing and painting Weekend - Blackheath

2011-12-13T13:52:00.000-08:00

I just wanted to let you know about a wonderful workshop I'll be conducting in the beautiful Blue Mountains. It'll be a weekend of painting, drawing, site seeing and art talk in and around my new home of Blackheath and the World Heritage Blue Mountains Area. Numbers are strictly limited to ten participants - non-participant partners are welcome.Gift Certificates available - Apply now! See http://www.gabriellejones.com.au/pages/workshops.html for more details

New work from the Studio Number Four

2011-10-15T18:39:00.000-07:00

Image: Gabrielle Jones, Waft (Blackheath), 122 x 152cm oil on Canvas

This is the first really faithful painting I have made from my drawings. I enjoyed playing with all the edges. I found that there was a first pass through in which position and technical stuff had to be sorted - and it was- but the painting was "dead" in my eyes. So eventually I had to leave all that behind and really just get in and paint, lose the thing, and then bring it back. Much like any other painting, and my abstract work in particular!

Funnily enough, I started this with spray enamel and a roughness, but ended up with a smoother, ethereal and sensitive look, as dictated by the subject matter.

What do you think?

New Studio Work Part 3

2011-10-08T18:32:00.000-07:00

Image: Gabrielle Jones, Evening (Lumen Series), Charcoal, pastel and shellac on paper, 70 x 100cm

Number three in the larger "lumen" series in which I explore landscape and the effect of light at different times of the day. I think that working in this series has made me understand what I am trying to produce in my paintings - a sensitivity (not always achieved!); a nod to the beauty of nature; a sense of "air" or ethereality; a discovery of surface pattern and the effects of light on this.

Do you work in series? What do you gain from it?

Vale Steve Jobs - a parallel to art

2011-10-07T16:06:00.000-07:00

I don't want to get on the band wagon regarding the death of this visionary man whose inventions literally changed my life (along with squillions of others. -I have been a Mac user since the early to mid 80's when they first came to Australia, as a member of the design industry). But I came across this quote in an article by Bianca Bosker in the Huffington Post, interviewing Jay Elliot who was a friend and worked with the young Steve Jobs.

"Steve challenged every part of me. I loved being challenged and I loved being exposed to that level of quality and accomplishment. It was a gift to be working with someone who had those smarts and vision. I was excited to go to work every day. Steve forces you to figure out who you are and who you are going to be."

I always wanted to work with a boss like him. I guess, in the end, that's why I chose "Art" (substitute for "Steve")

New Studio work Number Two

2011-10-01T18:26:00.000-07:00

Image: Gabrielle Jones, Aperture (Lumen Series), Charcoal on paper, 70 x 100cm

The second new work in a series I have been working on since November last year. Getting the Tone down pat! Feedback welcome.

New work from the studio -Part 1

2011-09-23T18:20:00.000-07:00

Image: Gabrielle Jones, Dapple (Lumen Series), Charcoal and Shellac on paper 70 x 100cm

I've decided to add new work as it is made and - hopefully - finished. I know a good editing process is all important for an artist, but I have been living with these for a few weeks now and they have survived the bin, the overdraw, and the touch up! I think they're cooked!

Gallery discovery of the week

2011-09-21T18:51:00.000-07:00

Ok - I have officially been living under a rock. It's no excuse that I lived in another major city in a rather large island for all of my life - I should have discovered this rather excellent Melbourne gallery before now. So I'm sharing it here with my fellow rock dwellers and my overseas friends.
An exceptional (and well curated) collection of artists from Australia that should have wider renown.
http://www.utopianslumps.com/

Image: William McKinnon (details unknown - see website)

Try Try Again! How do judges decide?

2011-09-18T15:21:00.001-07:00

Didn't make it into the Paddington Art Prize. :((

But as these things often happen, I received a newsletter (Blackheath Art Society Aug-Oct 2011) in the mail in which Anthony Bond, Director of Curatorial Services at the Art Gallery of NEw South Wales, was interviewed by Christine Townend regarding his choices in Art Prizes (among other things). He states that for him, "it is important to consider the context". In other words, if judging in an area where the "prevailing themes are landscape or configuration, you need to take that into account (and) encourage the best possible practice in that area, rather than automatically giving the prize to the most adventurous.....What interests me is the degree of honesty and observation that an artist brings to the work."

He later goes on to say that " in every case, I'm looking for an honesty, a directness and keenness of observation. Often the works that seek to be more contemporary end up being over technical or just plain flashy: they simply don't ring true".

Well, I don't consider mine flashy or technical, but then again, Tony Bond wasn't the judge. Perhaps he ought to have been!

Image: Gabrielle Jones, "Tree Movement (Blackheath)" 122 x 122cm Oil on Canvas. Perhaps should have entered this one?

So...what do you think makes a worthy prize winner? What considerations would you take into account if you were the judge? How do you pick up and go on after "Art Prize Failure"?

Hopeful New painting

2011-09-09T19:00:00.000-07:00

Image: Gabrielle Jones, "Rustle (Blackheath)" Oil on Canvas, 122 x 152cm

Here's the new painting I hope will beat the hex I seem to have upon me when it comes to Art prizes. I have entered it into the $20k Paddington Art Prize. Fingers triple crossed!

One Perfect day

2011-09-05T18:12:00.000-07:00

Rock Formations -the steep sides of the Grose Valley, Blue Mountains, Sydney

The "Pulpit" as seen from above

Pulpit Rock extends into the World Heritage listed Blue Mountains National Park, above one of the three main valleys, the Grose Valley

Descending the stairs that overhang the pulpit - a sense of scale

The walk took the track along the horseshoe escarpment of the Grose Valley for about 90 minutes,, with continuous views and lookouts from this high standpoint

Cloud Shadow over the Valley

The Braeside walk is beside a meandering brook - lasting another 90 minutes after the Govett's Leap lookout.

Streetscape and sunshine, Blackheath

The view from our side yard, across to the house

Awaiting the bursting blooms of our dogwood tree, as seen from the bedroom window. So nice to wake up to!

Spring announced itself with a magic day, in my new home in the World heritage listed Blue Mountains, 1.5 hours north west of Sydney. The weather was sunny and crisp, perfect for a long bush walk, so we took up the invitation and walked from Pulpit Rock to Govett's Leap, and on through the Braeside walk back to our home - 3 hours of one of the most beautiful bush walks I've ever been on. Although commuting to teach is wearing me down, it's times like this that I am so glad I made the change to live amongst the birds and trees that adorn the artists enclave up here.

I was Interviewed by Method Press Magazine

2011-09-01T02:15:00.000-07:00

Image: "Gabrielle Jones, Creative Space", Galia Alena, Method Press, Issue 2

I just saw the digital version of Method Press Magazine Issue 2 ("Creative Space/Gabrielle Jones" page 25). There's a few double-page spreads of an interview with me and photos taken in my studio whilst painting. See it at:http://issuu.com/methodpress/d ocs/method_press_summer2011_is sue2. One page doesn't load, but you get the idea. Pretty happy!

Creativity and Abstraction workshop, Sydney

2011-08-31T16:24:00.000-07:00

Image: Gabrielle Jones, "Hillside, Whitegums" Oil on Canvas, 101 x 101cm 2011

I am conducting a Creativity and Abstraction Workshop on September 24th at Sydney's Balmain (easy, free parking) from 10am to 4pm. Using observation of real objects, I'll walk you through a number of exercises, thinking methods, tools and imagination games to develop your ability to make interesting abstract work, move your realistic paintings away from the predictable, or improve composition and subject ideas. Tuition is structured to ensure fast learning and early success and stimulate creativity and generate ideas for on-going work. Suitable for those wishing to break out of their current painting rut, move from realism to abstraction, or who simply wish to explore abstraction and their creativity.

I held one a few weeks ago and the participants left with heaps of ideas for their work and the confidence to execute it when alone in their studios.

The cost will be $125 for the day. Morning and afternoon tea will be provided.
Further details (materials list, payment details etc) will sent upon inquiry. Contact me if interested:http://www.gabriellejones.com.au/pages/contact.html

Artist's Statement reviewed

2011-08-24T18:49:00.000-07:00

Just uploaded one of the funniest spoofs on an artist's statement I have seen (see videos left). Enjoy!

Discovery of the week - Rafael Karcz

2011-08-17T04:02:00.000-07:00

Albert Wang, art curator, IAO PROJECTS, Salt Lake City, USA states that rafael, a Polish artist, "focuses both the artist's and viewers' attention on various iterations of human faces, one of the traditional genres of art history. Frequently de-populated and executed with the artist's characteristic somber palette of rather monochromatic colors, Karcz's faces create an evocative atmosphere that is simultaneously disquieting, banal, and even, on occasions, gloomy or sinister. His fleeting glimpses of these motives are often ambiguous - both artist and viewer participate in the viewing of the scene and yet are somehow also clearly excluded from belonging in them..."

I think that, although showing the strong influence of the work of Marlene Dumas, these works cannot be ignored, especially for the apparent darkness in their soul. The contrast between the "touch" of water colour thin paint, applied to such violent, political scenes in dark colours is conceptually masterful, whilst the blur and misplacement of facial features - a recipe for disaster in lesser hands - is handled with great skill. But, you know what, I just love them. They move me, and that doesn't happen often. Enjoy!

Taking time to walk

2011-08-05T04:10:00.000-07:00

I just moved to Blackheath, in the Blue Mountains 1.5 hours North West of Sydney. Took the time out from teaching, moving, commuting and painting to take a walk in the memorial park, where I discovered a wonderful avenue of Rhododendrons. It soothed my soul and gave me energy for the rest of the day (another commute and a new class to teach). Here's the photos from my iPhone. Not bad for a winter's day, hey?

Artist discovery of the...well, a long time. Adrian Ghenie

2011-08-03T18:02:00.001-07:00

Just had this artist pointed out to me - and I must say, I think I've been living under a rock. Romanian artist, Adrian Ghenie must be one of the Ghenie-uses of our time! Man, can this guy paint!

His works all speak of his wonderful touch, although their subjects change, and they are all imbued with a dark strangeness and almost erotic sense of story and paint. What is going on? and while you're musing on this.. How does he do it? At times lush and flowing with paint and shoulder movement, at others spare and elemental - and often, all in the one painting. A wonderful treat for the eyes.

Modern edition.com says "Richly and often hermetically allusive, Ghenie's work attempts to investigate memory and the unconscious against a backdrop of 20th-century European history.Frequently attaining a cinematic, film noir-esque quality, Ghenie's highly structured, dramatically lit tableaux justifiably make him one of the major art stars of the moment".

Enjoy!

New art Classes Thursday Evening, Friday daytime

2011-07-24T02:54:00.000-07:00

Image: gabrielle Jones, "120kph Yass", Oil on Canvas, 122 x 182 cm

Students in the new space at Balmain

Students busy in the vibrant day classes, Balmain

I've started the Friday day classes at St John's Church, Balmain (corner Spring St and Birchgrove Roads). The parking is really easy, the space is large and light-filled, there are wall heaters, a new kitchen and toilets, lots of tables and chairs, and great students! The class has been going well, and the feedback from students is that it's a wonderful space. I can now easily accommodate some more students. Time is 10-2:30pm . Come join us! Cost is $75/class for 6 class bookings.

I've also mooted a Thursday night class, to accommodate some full time workers who want to join my classes, so let me know if that suits. Time is 6:30-9pm at the same venue, cost is $50/class for a term booking (6 classes $300). Classes commence on August 4th.

If you are interested, see www.gabriellejones.com.au and follow the workshops link for more information, or you can comment on this blog or email me through the contacts page on the website, and I'll get back to you ASAP.

What my students say:

Gabrielle is able to clearly understand the

preferences and strengths of every pupil. She

is therefore able to help them maximise their

potential through individual attention within her

friendly and supportive group classes. She gives

both practical instruction in colour appreciation,

composition, etc… and thoughtful ideas to

stimulate creativity. She also provides honest

and constructive feedback to her pupils. Above

all, Gabrielle exhibits a passion and enthusiasm

for her subject that is transmitted to everybody

around her.

Susan, Avalon

Thank you Gabrielle for all your fabulous
workshops, I look forward to learning more under
your generous guidance. Gabrielle’s workshops
are always full of both inspiration and knowledge
as well as constructive critique and direction for
your own work.
Galia, Ryde
I have been to a number of Gabrielle’s private art
classes and I hope to go to many more. I originally
came to learn about painting with acrylics but
I have learnt so much more. Gabrielle has an
immense amount of knowledge about art in
her head and can hardly wait to impart as much
of it as possible to you (in a good way!). I have
just learnt so much, ranging from landscape to
abstract to still life and everything in between.
I have also learnt about the importance of tone,
mixing from a limited palette, warm and cool
colours and how they can change depending on
their relationship to each other and that’s just for
starters! Gabrielle is also very generous with her
knowledge and always encouraging which is so
important to any artist.
Carolyn, Annandale

Handing in my homework incredibly late!

2011-06-26T00:41:00.000-07:00

Last Night In Fronteira de la Vejer - the walled city

Clouds at Sunset - Ronda

The Precarously poised bridge at Ronda

Even here, student protests are growing. In Spain 41% of 18-30year olds are unemployed

Buildings in Ronda - as viewed from Juan Bosco

Gratzelema - another of the white Pueblos

View from the Cathedral Piazza at Arcos

The beach near Trafalgar Point

Sunrise from our bedroom at Vejer de la Frontiera

And looking out the window.....

The town at night - Vejer de la Frontiera

Plaza de Espana, Vejer de la Frontiera

From the rooftop - looking at the other side of Vejer de la Frontiera. It runs across two ridges of the mountain.

OOPs! There was a perfectly reasonable explanation....

I've been back from my trip for almost three weeks - I've moved into a unit, started back teaching, found a house in the mountains to move to permanently, ramped up marketing for Bali Art Retreats and my private art classes, started said art classes in a new hall, am hanging a new exhibition on Tuesday....and not finished my blog about my trip. So here goes for the next leg (apologies for the delay).

We left Seville to drive to the far south coast of Spain and took a route via Puerta Santa Maria, a small coastal town. We stopped for lunch (very ordinary) after hiring a car which turned out to be upgraded to a brand new Volvo. First time on the "wrong" side of the road, with a big car and reduced visibility of where the car's extremities started and stopped, resulting in a five hour wait after lunch for the tow truck to remove us from the low "balls" that unpredictably marked the edge of the wrong way to the exit... 'nuff said (partner driving!)

The day was saved by arrival at the beautiful town of Vejer de la Frontier, a "white pueblo" perched on top of a mountain with the most beautiful view to the horizon. Sunset was spectacular, and sun -rise from our bedroom window, even better. Our room was an ice-blue with a deep red trim which altered my taste for white walls forever...and we ate the best Moroccan food on my tour to date at Caliph's, where it fused with Lebanese and African to delight the palate. The best white wine of the trip to date was also discovered earlier, at a bar in the Plaza de Espana which had groovy lights standing next to every outdoor table, so we could watch the parade of locals go about their business in outstanding comfort. The walk around the Jewish quarter and back to the other side takes about 10 minutes from view to view...a wonderful discovery of a town which we want to return to some day -one we wished we had more time to explore.

After breakfast in the hostal and greeting all the German tourists - a really cultured lot - we drove south to the beaches of Trafalgar point (where he defeated the French and Spanish Armadas) on Costa de Luz, travelling through an ex hippy town, and on to Arcos. We walked the steep hill to the Cathedral Square to take in the view, and had lunch at the Parrador with the most wonderful view across Andalucia from a full length and width picture window.

We hit the road again and got lost with our small and detail -less maps, but saw Gratzelema - another pretty white Pueblo in an unbelievably precarious position - and found our way to our destination at Ronda. We stayed in a seriously old house in Riad (Moroccan) style with a pretty garden overlooking the Rio (River)... and had drinks at sunset in Hotel Juan Bosco. The skies were truly magnificent, the valleys with olives, the bridge at Rondo hilariously perched.....

We then took Lonely Planet's suggestion and went out of our way to find the Bar San Francisco (named after the plaza it's in, not the city) and realised that LP is not a reliable judge of food, let alone tapas. Oh well - we ate well last night...

Stolen from Kaliman on Facebook

2011-06-26T00:27:00.000-07:00

I can't resist re-posting this automatic artists statement generator, first seen on my facebook page, posted by Rudi Kaliman. Talk about laugh!

http://10k.aneventapart.com/Uploads/262/# (also title link)

Images from Seville

2011-05-27T13:22:00.000-07:00

The Alcazabar from the extensive gardens that surround it.

Inside the main courtyard of the Alcazabar

Layers upon layers of finely carved decoration that manages still to have a restrained air

The Torreador stands close to the bull as it charges. A feat of skill and courage that needs to be seen to be believed - but only if you have the stomach for it)

The bull fight has enormous pageantry and tradition, and its colour and

drama can be seductive.

The wonderful old ceramics manufacturing building that now houses the city's contemporary art collection

The procession for Pentecost Sunday which winds through the narrow laneways, is accompanied by a full brass band playing appropriately dirge like music and can be heard for blocks away.

Youths spend time practicing to manoeuvre the heavy framework that underlies the highly decorated Eucharistic procession. We wondered what they were doing, and put it down to an Islamic thing, since their heads were covered in shawls that looked like Berber headwear - until we saw the above procession, that is.

Strollers on the bridge at Sunset in Seville

The Plaza Espana - a decorative, non functional folly containing ceramics at their most mixed and gaudy, still delights. Here the boats to hire to row a circuit of the "moat" around the construcion.

A large architectural structure found in the middle of nowhere, with no reference in the guidebooks, which covered the student protest now growing in Seville as well as Madrid. we think it was near one of the Universities.

Seville as seem from the bell tower of the Cathedral

The main, highly decorated altar of the Cathedral. A more constrained version of Spanish baroque

The facade of the cathedral

Hearing the “Clip clop” of horses hooves as they trot the cobbled pathways across the whole of the historical centre - the "Sound of Seville" for me.

Endless Nights of eating and drinking – how do the locals do it? (And could someone PLEASE put that young , screaming child to bed at once!)

The most beautiful Alcazar I have ever seen. Complete, well preserved with stunning gardens creating an oasis in the middle of the city and a place for a romantic stroll, complete with peacocks..

Warm nights walking through the park, home to our Hostal.

River cruise at sunset – water is silver, silence prevails, and the air is fresh.

Walking the Triana district and eating fish by the river

Political contemporary art was far too didactic for my tastes (is it visual art or political commentary??), but timely for Spaniards, considering the student occupation of the main squares across the country.

Trying to find eggs for breakfast –we did on the last day!

Why are there no real tomatoes left in Spain??? (“Tomate” just doesn’t cut it!)

I agree with Ernest Hemmingway that Bull fights are “a wonderful Nightmare”. The colour, the drama and the courage. The way the animal and the human dance together and eye each other off. I know animal rights people have every right to complain, and I was very conflicted about the bulls being killed, whilst respecting the tradition that started this, but there is some magic there, as well.

Barrio Santa Cruz and the Jewish quarter are wonderful places to get lost in.

The best food really can be in the tourist areas. We had the two best Tapas meals outside our hotel!

Three Days in Madrid

2011-05-27T12:40:00.000-07:00

Students Protesting in the Plaza del Sol, which we passed daily on our walks to museums. The numbers grew rapidly from just a few with home made signs, to a large media scrum

Getting up close and personal with the fabulous exhibition by Leon Golub in the almost more fabulous cultural space in the Parque Real.

The interior of the almost deserted cafe at Reina Sofia. Seems the locals and tourists flock mostly to see the older, Name art. So what's different???

Loved this sculpture at the entrance between the old and new buildings at Reina Sofia, which is to my mind the best gallery in Madrid

Graphics in the Mercado, an experience in itself (rather like Simon Johnstons)> Quite Beautiful to stroll in and salivate

The gardens and cafes at the entrance to the Palacio in front of the Palace Real

The Cathedral near the Palacio Real (main Cathedral in Madrid). It is decorated in bright colours and modern designs and makes a wonderful change from all the other beautiful but traditionally decorated cathedrals visited on this trip.

View of Madrid from the Cupola of the cathedral

The Palacio Real, complete with headless dummies on Flamenco dress. Would be great to say this was a modern art installation - instead, it was another chance to take money in exchange for a photograph.

Creative Graffiti in Madrid town

A landmark in Madrid - The Circulogico

Trees in the Parque real - Alice in Wonderland, Anyone???

In the Foyer at The Prado Museum (Colour co-ordinated!)

They start them soooo young in Spain! This was a school group taken out for the day to the Prado - I'm guessing the kids were about 4 years old! So tiny. If we don't even try until they are in high school, how will our kids ever develop the same love of the arts?

Arrived via the very human sized airport at Marrakech, into the groovy designed one at Madrid. Good connections and a helpful cabbie had me in town in good time to walk the many narrow streets and explore the plazas, sit in the Plaza Santa Ana and enjoy some tapas before hitting the sack.

Over the next few days we took in most of the Prado Museum, The Chardin exhibition and Heironymous Bosch being the stand out for us as well as a happy visit to Velaquez’s “Las Meninas”. Again, racing past Rubens to see Tintorettos needs some rationalising, and in the end we did our tastes and the museum proud, being very disciplined in what we saw. I also saw most of the later art in the Thyssen Bournimisza Museum, a private collection made public which boasts an excellent Monet and Van Gogh, but mostly interesting because it presents some good works of a wealth of artists that may never make publication in art books. The German Expressionist Painters and the Fauves are very well represented, Pechstein being the rediscovery of a great artist, for me.

I also took two broken visits to see the art at the Reina Sofia, a truly magnificent building (being a former palace, as most of these museums are) with an outstanding modern extension which seems to house only the library and the café. I like their style! We spent some time in front of Guernica, which didn’t disappoint, as well as in the surrounding rooms which present studies and sketches and other related finished paintings and information. I then explored the rest of the museum, with Juan Gris being the re-discovered artist, as well as cementing my astonishment at Picasso’s output as well as versatility and willingness to experiment throughout his life.

The student protests, centred in Plaza del Sol, are growing at a great rate and I wonder whether Spain will be next in the revolution stakes. I think Daniel would fit in well here.

Other places of interest we visited were the Palacio Real, which for my mind, leaves Buckingham palace for dead in decoration, creativity, and sheer capriciousness –every room had a different theme, no “reserve” here – and its armaments collection. Never would I have imagined that Knights in armour could look so good, in delicately carved and well designed and engineered metal made by the best European craftsmen, Silversmiths etc of their time, from Italy and Germany. It would have been a truly awe-inspiring sight to be waving madly in a crowd, as those knights, astride their prancing, jangling horses, marched by. The horse armour was exceptionally sculptural and beautiful, and the lances unexpectedly long! Ouch!.

I also explored the Cathedral and the park Real, with the Crystal Palace floating near the duck pond, and saw an outstanding retrospective exhibition by Leon Golub in the beautiful palace building at the opposite end of the walkway.
We have still to find, great tapas mixed with great wine – local knowledge needed in this capital of Tapas.

If Madrid is about its art, it didn’t disappoint, although sometimes, too much art is just that. I need to rest my eyes…and some more modern art!

Day 13-14: Essaouira

2011-05-14T03:21:00.000-07:00

Nimble fishermen navigate the blue boats in harbour

the Fish markets. We chose our fish then proceeded to the restaurant where they cooked it for us. BBQ Squid - Yum!

Fish on display at the markets

Boats fill the port, awaiting the next morning's outing. The Auction is on in the afternoon

Our Riad - another good room, where everything works, even the shower (a little too over zealously - the whole room is wet!)

Armaments stores now house shops selling the local craft specialty - wood work

Canons line the ramparts

One of the ubiquitous cats of Morocco, here a very healthy one, due to the

proximity of the fish market.

Colourful doorways are also very rustic in this town

We left after breakfast for Essaouira. The narrow streets of Essaouira are ideal for casual exploration. Their size discourages cars, and as we walk through the town it feels as though little has changed since the days of sea pirates. It is a mix of religiously conservative Arabs, French and German tourists, and groovy young locals wearing designer gear. Apparently jummy Hendricks wrote purple haze whilst staying on one of the local islands, and there is a square and garden named after Orson Welles, who made the movie, “Othello” here and spent many months )years?) painting the area as well. It is one of North Africa's most attractive venues and soon we find ourselves slipping into its easy-going rhythm, glad of the escape from frenetic markets. The fishing port, filled with indigo blue and aqua painted boats, is a serious commercial operation and it was fun to observe the daily catch and its subsequent auction. Elsewhere there are numerous shops and several fine art galleries along with a wide variety of restaurants.

We visited the fort where canons still poke through the ramparts, on to a magnificent view of the ocean and rocks beyond; walked along the extensive wall, where the arched armaments store rooms now house woodwork, saw the most astounding overlaid woodwork table that took the cabinet maker 6 months of his life; and caught the sun on our shoulders due to the wide French designed streets.

A quick snooze on the calm beach and it was time for dinner. We had our best meal here, at a waterfront restaurant, great service and wine, for the princely sum of about $35AUD, by far the most expensive yet. I even tried Sea Urchin for the first time and was suitably impressed with its flavour.

Today is a bit of a lay day – I intend to look at the galleries to see what the state of art is here, which is supposed to be the centre of painting for Morocco. I’ll also catch the fish auction and eat at one of the best local restaurants, Elizirs, full of 60’s memorabilia and, from what I saw when making the reservation, some decent art.

Day 10: Skoura-Ait Benhaddou

2011-05-14T01:56:00.000-07:00

Fresh Chickens anyone?

The view from the pool at Ait Ben Haddou

Dr Berber, myself and the pink waiter - I gave him desert Berber head wear, he gave me a man's style. Lots of laughs and sad to be leaving.

One of the many kasbahs on the road of a 1000 kasbahs

Hollywood meets Berber at Skoura - a bit of a culture shock between the authentic and the touristy, but a stop on the way is necessary in all this driving.

Our guide shows us the way life was in a Kasbah - at least for the women.

Light plays on the wall of the courtyard or Riad as it is known. Fruit trees and planted for shade.

Knock off time for the extras at Ait Ben Haddou

The real town of Ait Ben Haddou - back to the hawkers but 188 steps to the top was worth the view

View over the area from the ramparts

After a ceremonial "head scarf tying competition" between myself and the "pink waiter" and some more laughs, we said goodbye to the M'goun valley and set off on the fabled 'Road of 1000 Kasbahs'. Our first stop is at Skoura Oasis, home of several privately-owned Kasbahs, where we visit the splendid Kasbah Ameridhl with its extravagant decorations and mud-brick fortifications, and early kitchen and craft implements. The most intriguing was an antique wooden lock that is a pice of sculpture in iself and something I would love to buy if only my 20kgs bag limit would allow.

Continuing our journey we reach Ait Benhaddou, one of Morocco's greatest paradoxes. This place is home to a list of movies made here, including the fight scene from Gladiator where a buffed Russell Crowe proves his manhood in the arena and becomes a favourite of his slave master. Scenes in Star Wars were also shot here, but I wouldn't know, being the only human on Earth who hasn't seen the movies (or four). However, Hollywood aside, it is still, in its own right, one an interesting sight in Morocco with a superb collection of mud-brick kasbahs are without equal. We enjoyed a walk through the old town, waving at the extras from yet another Egyptian movie being shot here, whoo were "storming" the fortress and riding horses towards iconic gates that are used in amny movies, but which open on to nothing. (The Egyptian economy is almost built on its export of movies to the Arab speaking world).

I braved a swim in the pool, which has the most amazing view over the valley, but the roofing and planting of trees was not enough to shelter me from prying eyes - the waiter that just had to walk back and forth along the pool, the man who almost killed himself on the roof of a nearby building trying to get a look - so i quickly dressed and returned to the hotel. I guess it's nothing more than might happen in a SYdney building site, and even though I decided it was their behavioural problem, nt mine and that I was just doing what's natural, it does make me uncomfortable. I think it is sad, for many reasons, that females are so covered up that men will do anything to get a look at a woman, to touch her etc. Frankly, it's not natural.

had another dinner of salads, tangine and fruit.....

Day 11 and 12: Ait Benhaddou-Marrakech

2011-05-14T01:48:00.000-07:00

Some of the spectacular scenery en-route to Marrakech

Our Riad in marrakech. Initial delight was tempered by the lack of electricity during the evening, followed by no internet and then no water! Oh the third world!

Trolleys are the only way to negotiate the alley ways in the medina in Marrakech

Shoes shoes and more shoes. And yes, I paid to much for a red pair that I love

Natural, hand-dyeing of the wools for weaving into rugs and scarfs happens in the medina. I was tempted to buy some pigments, but didn't want a spill in my suitcase.

Lanterns hang on the wall near one of the souks in the market

Boxes for carrying gifts to the groom or bride, during the wedding ceremony. It used to go on for days, but the prohibitive expense means that most young people resrtict the celebration to only one day.

Monkeys in the box, awaiting their turn to please the crowd - at the end of a chain. No donations, here!

A business man leans close to hear his fortune told in the market

The market comes alive at night where stalls cook traditional Moroccan food to order.

Every square inch is taken up with sale-able goods.

Natural medicine is available at many stores. I tried the cold cure - it works like a Cold and Flu tablet on speed. Dried me up like an old witch - water, water please???

Spice mountains are also at the market in Marrakech

The concubines quarters, close to the owners bedroom

Tassles of all sizes hang from the roof in a souk

Fine stitching is a feature of many cloths, this one in the museum

Colourful locals, colourful fruit and veg

Berber dancers who busk in the square at marrakech, approaching a tourist

Finally, the Water Carrier

The Square on a quiet Thursday afternoon - the night comes alive as this ia almost the weekend for the locals

Pavillion de la Menara - I found where the locals meet! Olive groves surround the building, and more than a few young lovers were spied holding hands and talking ernestly amongst the trunks of the trees.

The celebrations with the other Peregrine group

We drove for several hours through the winding roads of the Atlas, bound for Marrakech. Again, the scenery is astounding, even through the threatening, leaden skies, and we stopped for photos in jaw dropping locations. The country changes so much! On arrival in Marrakech we cheked into our beautiful Riad hotel, the mirror, bed head, wardrobe and chairs were attention grabbers with intricate metal work inlaid with stone and I’d love to take them home. As soon as we were settled, we headed into the famous Jemaa el Fna, the great square, one of the largest public spaces in the world and unique to Marrakech. Every night it comes alive with snake-charmers, musicians, story-tellers, fire-eaters and hundreds of small outdoor restaurants, though to take a photo can cost as much as 200Dirham each – so the sneaky photography trick of buying a meal in one of the restaurants with a view from the terrace was employed. Everyone seems to be in on the “photography charge”, even veiled ladies. It’s a much easier square to navigate than Fes and the Great Minaret (third largest minaret in Morocco) serves as a handy land mark.

After breakfast the next day, we met our Marrakech local guide and set off on a morning tour of the old medina. We visited the beautiful 150 room Bahia Palace, a splendid mansion built in 1866 for a former slave who had risen to become Vizier of Moulay Hassan Government. The palace for his 24 concubines was handily located to the royal quarters, as was those of his four wives. He ruled Morocco whilst the king’s sons grew to majority. He was eventually ousted by the French who decided to take over the building for their administration. We explored the tranquil inner courtyards, fragrant with orange blossom, and the many salons and chambers that make up this elegant home. We continue to the Marrakech Museum, itself a former palace, which houses a fine collection of Moroccan art and sculpture – saw my first painting displays, some good, some awful, all abstract (yay!)- and we then walked through the streets of the old medina as we make our way back to the Jemaa el Fna. I found the place to buy the Marrakechi (black and white) and Berber hats (wool with geometric shapes) to add to my collection, and the castanets that may have to wait for our return to Marrakech in two days.

After lunch and more spy photography, I jumped the hop on- hop off tour bus to get a better understanding of the city, stopped at a few places and then returned to the Riad, a little tired. The rest of Marrakech seems to be made up of salubrious hotels made from former Riads, being the embassy houses of former foreign diplomats. All in all, Marrakech is a bit disappointing, perhaps from expectations raised by friends who have visited here, or perhaps because of the length of time I have been travelling. For me, Fes had a more exciting Medina, and the countryside is a better experience because of its people.

We celebrated two birthdays and the last night of the other Peregrine group with Pizzas and red wine (we are all a bit ired of the lack of variety in Moroccan food - at least as we know it.

Day 9: A day walk in the M'goun Valley

2011-05-12T09:25:00.000-07:00

Drumming in the evening - an influence of Arabic and Berber traditional songs, along with poetry.

The Kasbah we walked to

Spectacular views along the way

Doctor Berber - La'Hassim

Poppy fields also line the valley and we walked through a number of Berber villages. These people of the High Atlas Mountains were the fierce resistance against the French colonisers and are still very protective of their culture and land.

Cheeky berber boys can now count to five in English

A lone Female strikes a pose

Boys walk the alley ways behind the tall walls of the village

Causing a riot in the store - buying lollies

We explored this beautiful area, trekking a 10km circuit that took about 4 hours, under the guidance of La’Hassim, a member of the family that owns the Gite D’Atape where we are staying. Our party down to two after about one area, we walked past Berber villages -red slammed-earth buildings camouflaged into the hillsides with an occasional, astoundingly coloured door. The mosque marks the approach to another village, and some of the houses are very well cared for, with gardens in front and straight fences. Our guide even proudly pointed out one which had wooden windows and was made of very well constructed bricks.

The highlight was meeting Berber children and the occasional adult, along the way, greeting them with “salam alicom” (at least, that’s how I pronounced the Berber for Hello). I had packed some dates for the trek but found that giving them away to the kids was much more enjoyable. And may I say, there are a few more children in the Berber villages that know how to “high Five” and count to five in English now, because of my urge to play with them. The girls are very shy from a concerningly young age, having been taught already, in this very religiously conservative area, that they should not draw attention to themselves. I did, however, catch one of them who smiled happily for the camera and I nearly started a riot when I asked La’Hassim to buy some “bon bons” for the children at the village “Alimentar”.

Throughout the trek, it was patently obvious that the women of the area work very hard, washing clothes in the river, fetching alfalfa for the animals and carrying it in large sacks on their backs, tending to the crops, cooking the meals and keeping the interior of their homes clean and tidy. When I asked what the men do, Atika, our guide, said that they shop once a week for the family….. Apparently, they decide all purchases, including what the women will wear. They hold the money, and the power.

The walk also included the famous Rose Valley, a rich, cultivated area which borders the river flowing from the Atlas Mountains, where “Grain” (wheat) onion, carrot, potato and broad beans (the Berber staples) are grown in small family owned plots. This valley also has wild “damacien” roses growing along the river, providing a truly sensational setting for a long trek. The roses have a distinctive perfume and are harvested for rose water and for the paste used in the Hammam, among other applications.

Another highlight of the day was trying to communicate with La’Hassim, who speaks French, Berber, Arabic, a little Spanish and no English. I know a few French words, a few Italian and Spanish words and I learnt from him a few Berber words, and some Arabic – woah! One language at a time! He gave me the names for river, good, bad, wheat, thank you, and many others I will never remember. And somehow I found out that his pronounced limp – one leg is about 4-6inches shorter than the other and he walks constantly on his toes on this leg, whilst his back swivels around to carry this leg forward- was caused by a fall from a terrace in the mosque. I assume he was not able to get proper medical attention or to get it in time. It causes him pain in his leg and a lot of pain in his lower back, but still he manages to lead this trek! He also managed to apply a “muy intelligente” Berber trick to my foot that was giving me trouble due to an ill-fitting shoe, (no comparison in the pain compared to his, I am sure) so that I was able to finish the trek in relative comfort. “Doctor Berber” is now his nick-name.

We returned to a lunch of Berber Omelette – containing the locally grown vegetables and one egg, mixed with Moroccan spices and cooked in a Tagine dish and very tasty, accompanied by the wonderful freshly squeezed orange juice that is a staple of Morocco. A short siesta followed and an afternoon of drawing this amazing “Panoramique”.

We then had dinner, and a wonderful display of drumming from all the family - apparently all cousins, no brothers, but I can't see how this is possible. However, a great family likeness and all handsome - what's a girl to do? We danced and I was asked to sing, so fortified with a couple of beers (ONLY! I Promise) I sand "father and Son" as Yusef Islam (alias cat Stevens) is due to perform in Rabat in a week or two, so the locals know some of his work. Anyway, the night finished with logic tricks (the kind I used to play in the pub after work with the Engineers) and so , despite the language barrier in the instructions, I solved two of the puzzles to great surprise from the berbers. I had to prove that women are smart, so tried particularly hard. This was one of the highlights of the trip, amongst very generous, very funny , very musical and very beautiful people.

Day 8: Todra Gorge-Dades Valley-M'goun Valley

2011-05-12T09:05:00.000-07:00

Again, Spectacular Scenery Lines the Route.

We passed many towns and kasbahs along the route. Most of these, in Berber Country, are made of Mud and lime, with grain as a strengthener, and blend into the mostly rocky countryside.

Todra Gorge itself - complete with father and son commuting by donkey

It seems to be the men who are most interested in fertility -

or perhaps, its another "-ility" word?

One of the towns we passed through and stopped for water. Colour is a by word for Morocco.

The friendly camel herder, come Berber drummer. So special...

Sun rise over the sand dunes.

Climbed the hill only half way this time to enjoy a further sunrise ride –which looked a little more like a moon rise and happened whilst we were looking elsewhere- but still wonderful to be up at this part of the day (Unusual!) before we return to our Auberge. A quick reviving breakfast, consisting of mostly jams and strong coffee, and it was off towards Todra Gorge, a massive trench that rises over 250 metres and one of the most dramatic natural sights in Morocco. We took a short walk in the area, where the locals come to swim in the shallow stream and take water from the waterfall which, in local lore, guarantees fertility (and it was surrounded by men, only!) A lunch of beef kebabs and “frites” (fries) hit the spot – but the Berber omelette looked and tasted better – damn!- before continuing to the beautiful Dades Valley, where we stopped for a break, and to take some photos of the remarkable scenery and continue our journey. We arrived in the M'goun valley and spent the night in a Berber house. The walls are made from rammed earth and what looks like straw, and there are geometric symbols carved out of them, with roof panels of what looks like bamboo stems, also laid out in geometric patters, The view from the window made me a very happy chappy - up the road, women carry bundles of grass to be dried for animal feed, on their backs in large wrap around cloths; the local area bus unloads way too many youths to fit in such a small vehicle, after they have enjoyed a day out; while the children don sticks like those the world over and play for hours. And all this to a back drop of spectacular – and you have to see it to believe it – red rocky mountain ranges, seemingly close enough to touch but in actual fact, miles away.

Dinner on the terrace, surrounded by the red stone, monumental mountains and served by – well, lets face it, beautiful local youths (who could, in fact score modeling contracts in places like Italy with the right gear, if only they could be found out here) meant that the views all round were wonderful and a great day capped finishes on a high note.

Day 7: Midelt and the Sahara

2011-05-10T11:14:00.000-07:00

Drumming around the campfire.

The camp as viewed from the top of the sand dune I climbed

The sunset - a very special moment for Mothers Day in the Sahara

The view from the sand dune

One perfect dune!

Inside the Berber Tent. I slept half the night under the stars.

Our camp - The attendants slept in a similar camp nearby. The real deal! (except there were western toilets. Fair's Fair - it is a holiday!

The Camel Train - I'm on the last one

Our helpful attendants watch us mount these bloody uncomfortable animals! I still have bruises....

The train outside out hotel - awaiting the 1.5 hour trek

View from the hotel terrace - not bad! The camp is for the hotel staff - they really live in these things!

A donkey to market!

The Oasis

Spectacular Scenery - the dam

Today there was a long drive to reach Merzouga, where we dropped off our gear at a simple Auberge, drank mint tea and talked to some of the other group who mirror our tour, and then rode camels into the edge of the Sahara Desert, staying in the Erig reason in a real berber tent and compound. We enjoyed a spectacular sunset after a heart rending, calf muscle screaming hike up a very steep sand dune – to sit in awe and silence at the very tip of the highest dune around. The camp looked like a small jigsaw puzzle from this height, the grazing animals of other Berber compounds only specs on the desert floor. The dunes are stunning, especially at this time of the day, and the camping under a thousand stars, whilst being served a hearty tangine for dinner and, later, entertained by beautiful Berber boys/camel drivers on bongo-like drums was one of the highlights of the tour so far. I as invited to join in on the drums, playing in rhythm with the sounds of berber music, and acquitted myself admirably, such that later, we jammed in a rather strange English/Arabic rap type session whereby I defended the honour our female guide against a (jesting) suggestion that she share the other group’s (male) guide’s tent. I then slept half the night under the stars, something I have never done before, (The sand and lighning eventually drove me into the allocated tent to sleep soundly until an early morning wake up call)

Day 6: From Fes-Midelt

2011-05-10T10:52:00.000-07:00

The first sighting of a Midelt Berber - at our hotel! How touristy (but he is a real Berber!)

Colourful shops at a small town along the road from Fes to Midelt. The weather was getting decidedly cooler.

Carcasses hang outside shops in this town known for its kebab/barbecue cooking.

Not much else seems to happen here.

Spectacular alpine scenery and our first glimpse of Moroccan snow

The rock formations in Morocco have to be seen to be believed! There are many colours from gray to green to red.

We stopped for a picnic at a trout fishermen's paradise -and we liked it, too! We bought French brie on long white w\loafes, fresh dates and tomatoes -perfect! - at our first "French-style" supermarket experience

There are many colourful wildflowers along the road - the yellow and purples were my favourite. Scenery changes at almost every bend, and you find yourself anticipating the next "wow!" moment.

A curious Barbury ape.

The Ski town of Ifrane - the local private American Boarding school means that the helicopter pad is kept busy during the term break, so the parents can fit in a little skiing with their offspring!

Leaving Fes we drove south, passing through a variety of spectacular scenery as we made our way towards Midelt. We stopped to in the ski town of Ifrane for coffee, and to see the Barbury apes who live in the forrest but are fairly used to tourist hand outs. We happened upon a small town where kebab was the specialty, with carcasses hanging in the open air from butchers hooks along the streetside kiosks (including a goat which still held on to its head) and the scent of wood-fired meat tantalizing the senses. Midelt is a smallish market town, nestled between the Atlas and Anti-Atlas Mountains, at an elevation of just over 1500m. It’s a perfect spot to break the journey to the Sahara, being a great base for some easy walks. Many of the locals are Berber, and the surrounding countryside is beautiful. After lunch, we stretched our legs for a few hours on an easy hike in the nearby hills of the Merran Gorge, where the locals were extremely friendly and obliging this camera happy trekker with free photos (most Moroccans seem camera shy; if not, we need to pay them 1 -5 Dirhams (approx 1/10 -1/2 cent) depending on their ability to make us feel guilty). Their homes are stacked on top of each other and the hills, and camouflaged, and the washing drying on the rocks of a steep gorge made for colourful shots against a mainly yellow ochre background. More than a few donkey photos, and lone cycler shots were taken, along with photos of curious adolescent girls, sunning themselves on rooftop terraces amongst the satellite dishes (the cost of one dish and wiring is relatively cheap, there are over 200 channels available, and subsequent dishes are free – so the locals everywhere, even in the most remote areas, seem to take exceptional advantage of this). Another wonderful day and a great breakfast followed.

Day 5: Fes-Moulay Yacoub

2011-05-10T10:39:00.000-07:00

The view from the terrace restaurant in the Old Medina

Our driver - rashid, whom I dubbed, alternately as Fred (common name in Islam) or Geoff (as in Wake up Geoff from the wiggles); and our guide, the only female guide in Morocco, the lovely Atika

A water seller in the markets. They carry a goat skin bladder around the alleyways, with brass cups on this distinctive red outfit. I couldn't catch the front of him, and if I did, I needed 1 Dirham which I didn't have handy, so you'll just have to imagine what he looks like!

In one of the wider parts of the Souk in the old Medina. The boy caught us just around the corner from here.

Inside one of the souks in the medina - a huge contrast from the exterior. This one sold blue mosaic pottery and the house dates back to the 17th century.

The scenery at Moulay Yacoub

Photos were taken from a speeding vehicle - pretty happy with camera performance!

We drove to nearby spa village of Moulay Yacoub situated amongst towering hills. Here we enjoyed a swim in the old thermal baths where water spouted from a small fountain at about 45degrees celcius. We were shepherded by the staff into the mixed bathing area (there is also one for just the women, which we would have preferred) so became the entertainment for a few local men, who were a bit cheeky when they “accidentally’ swam into us,. Apparently, just touching us (I really didn’t notice it and didn’t take offenc) is a sign of a alck of respect. Well, it’s their problem ,not mine.

Three of us returned to Fes , to the old medina, where I bought my Fes (I collect hats on overseas trips). We got lost following a small boy (”What you want? Where you like to go?”) who picked us up like the inexperienced tourists we were, in the only broad square in the medina where the Bath house we sought was closed to women in the afternoon. He lead us on a merry dance to find a traditional Hammam (Moroccan body scrub/shower) which we were determined to have, being disappointed that the morning spa didn’t offer one. When the chase (he walked very fast – Yalla! Yalla!) lead us into a dark alley way and an anonymous doorway where he promised a hammam was to be had, we backed out past the gathered youths, deciding that this was not a place to bear our bodies and scrub. Of course he followed us, offering another bath house, but I paid him two Dirham (the going rate is one) for the entertainment he provided and told him to make sure he went to school. He asked for 5 euro and when I laughed, he hassled one of the other girls, eventually telling her to “F off!” (His English is very good!).

Shoma! Shama! (Shame on you) surprised him, bt I think he went back to the square to find some other tourists.

We then followed an excruciatingly slow tour group of seniors who had been speaking English, hoping to see if their guide could recommend a bath house. We accidentally walked out of the Medina, and decided this was a sign to follow, so took a mini cab back to the hotel and took a quick Swim in the pool. I was finally able to have a Hammam in the inn where we stayed,. It consists of stripping down and laying on heated granite slabs, where warm water is thrown on the skin (back and front) with buckets held by a dedicated very wet, therapist, who then scrubs the body with a loofah in a very vigorous manner. Somewhere in there, a sweet smelling brown paste is applied, the hair is washed, and the body moisturised. I highly recommend it!

We then went back to the old Medina and ate a traditional meal on a rooftop terrace, entertained by the ubiquitous cats and the activity of the medina below.

Day 4: Fes

2011-05-10T10:12:00.000-07:00

The hard work of others does, sometimes, make for spectacular photos. These were taken at the tannery.

A man walks the vats at the tannery - I can't believe their balance!

Tans hang in different coloured sections of the tannery, to dry in the sun

Cloths, cloths and more cloths. The handwoven silk and furniture tapestry was the most tempting - but the restricted baggage allowance meant I only salivated, but didn't buy.

The king is in town! Turn on the lights.

Women were said to be worth their weight in gold - and here's the scales that an intending groom had to use!

Inside the Museum.

The hustle and bustle of the markets makes for a very exciting day.

The impressive Medresse el Attarine (I think - too many places ,all wonderful, in the medina)

Men sit outside the Mosque (and yes, I did give him a donation)

Colourful cloths hang in the alleyways of the old Medina

Fresh snails are available for the French market at the old Medina.

Here a man is sorting them out - how? I don't know.

Working the tiles by hand for all those gorgeous mosaics

The old Medina of Fes -there are two more quarters to this city!

Wool bales at the markets - all the colours of Morocco are pastels in jewel shades -

and never the same, and never boring

Finally beat the Japanese tourists to a pic outside the impressive gates

Day 4: Fes

Spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, Fes is vibrant, noisy, fascinating and overwhelming - a visual and pungent assault on the senses. It is made up of three distinct ‘cities’, or quarters, and we are based in the elegant ‘Nouveau Ville’ or New City, where we stayed in the Fes Inn, and which has a distinctly French/European character. Today we headed into the old city, known locally as Fes el Bali, arguably the world's most fascinating and confounding old city. The sound of Halak! Halak! (“beware”) was the signal to squash against the wall as donkeys carted everything from eggs, wool, kindling and green vegetables through the narrow streets, with owners urging them with sticks or loud cries in between yelling at stupid tourists standing in their way with cameras. The contest was on for the best donkey shot – I think I won.

Everything is for sale here –think of the largest art market you know, add a growers market, a vintage market and a worthless trinkets market, and squash it into a laneway or a hundred, and you’ve got an idea of the Medina. Exciting, stimulating and confusing, but most of all, fun.

Medieval Fes was one of the world's great centres of education and culture: both Islamic and Jewish. Its religious institutions and its libraries are legendary. Its mosques are of great renown. And it was to Fes that many of the Muslims (and Jews) expelled from Spain by Ferdinand and Isabella came in 1492. As we walked through the streets and alleyways, passing historic khans, medresses and dye-pits, it is not hard to imagine ourselves back in the Middle Ages. We spent the day exploring the old city, visiting the Belghazi Museum, Medresse el Attarine, the tanneries and the splendid Funduk Nejjarine, a beautifully restored 18th century inn. We return to our hotel in the late afternoon, then went to a touristy show that showcased the various styles of music and dance from Morocco, as well as a decidedly “Jerry Lewis” version of a local magician. We drive home along the main boulevarde, lit to honour the presence of the king in the city, with fountains and what looked suspiciously like Christmas trees at the four corners of the large gardens/median strips which separate the traffic.

Morocco update

2011-05-10T09:45:00.000-07:00

Volubilis

Many of the Mosaics are fantastically preserved - for now!

Just a taste of the wonderful countryside between Meknes and Fes.

Anyone for fresh chicken? The mincer on the side and the de-feathering box used straight after the chickens are killed.

Everything on the carcass is used, and even this display was attractive.

Beautiful Spices are proudly and carefully displayed throughout the market in a variety of eye-catching designs

The busy square that fronts the markets at Meknes

Beautiful attention to detail in decoration, design and materials, in just about every building

A fountain to was in is always the first item inside or immediately outside a mosque. Here it is outside the Bou Inania Medresse qur’anicschool.

The Palace at Kenehoe(?) where a damn to supply the city is a huge welcome to the Medina and Palace

Bab Mansour gates at Meknes

At last some internet time - so it's a backlog of Morocco moments to let you know what I 've been up to -best to read in order of the days numbered.

Day 3: Meknes-Volubilis-Fes

Volubilis was once a provincial Roman capital, a distant outpost of the empire, and as we approached it we could see it prominently sited along the edge of a high plateau. Today it is the most impressive Roman site in Morocco and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. We explored the many public buildings and at the House of Orpheus we see several fine mosaic floors intact. The storks were back in force and nesting on the highest parapets. There was even a chick or two.

Back in Meknes we discover the charming streets of the old medina - a perfect prelude to Fes. A modern, interpretive sculpture of the water bearer, important to the life of the city stands at the entrance to the Palace at Kenehoe (?) where many Japanese posed for photos for hours. I was finally able to catch a picture with the guards in the background, and listened to our guide’s explanation of the 7 pointed star of Islam, as well as the “hand of Fatima” on the doors (the door jamb), and the five pointed star of Morocco, all of which appear on the impressive brass doors.
We entered the Medina through Bab Mansour – the largest of Meknes’ Gates, attached to Place Hedim the medina’s main Square and food market, alive with movement. A short visit revealed rows of brilliantly coloured spices, Olives in striped towers, meat hanging in full body from butchers hooks, local vegetables in plentiful supply, and the most beautifully decorated sweets and chocolates to tempt the palate.

Through the Medina’s northern gate, Bab Berdaine, we walked to the shrine of Moulay Idriss who, in the 17th century, turned Meknes from a provincial town to a spectacular Imperial city. We visited the lovely Bou Inania Medresse (religious qur’anicschool) and after time to explore the old souk we drove to Fes for the night. We ate in a semi Italian restaurant’ La cappodcoia< near the hotel, still a bit gun shy of venturing to far past all the ment hat seem to lounge out the front of all the other bars and restaurants.

Marvelous Morocco

2011-05-07T00:20:00.000-07:00

A woman rides a donkey on the streets of Rabat

Driving from Rabat to Meknes - great scenery that changes often

Even the farms are a decoration on the landscape

First views of Meknes

The blue and white walls of Kasbah des Oudaias

View from the steps of Hassan Mosque and Royal Mausoleum

One of the "Corner Guards" of the Mausoleum

The Mosque and Mausoleum of Hassan 3(?)

Mounted Guards outside the Mausoleum

More Roman Ruins at Sala

Arches upon arches and ghostly presence at Sala

The stork Chick - my first sighting of the bird, ever

The Chellah at Rabat

The restaurant in the wall at Rabat

The Hassan 5 Palace guards at Rabat

Inside the Great Mosque of Hassan II in Casablanca

A woman braves the rain outside the mosque, walking across the enormous square that fronts it, leaving its back to the sea

Mosque of Hassan II

Day 2 In Casablanca we saw the impressive Mosque of Hassan II, opened in 1993, and second only in size to the great mosque at Mecca. It can accommodates 25,000 worshippers and is one of the only religious sites open to non-Muslims. This is a spectacular building located by the sea, to incorporate the three elements of water, land and sky (the tall minaret). The mosaics and attention to detail are mind boggling – one archway leads to another, every turn rewards with light playing in a different direction, with the glimpse of another arch, decoration, carving just beyond.

Later we drove to Rabat, the elegant capital of Morocco and our first Imperial city. It contains numerous fine Arab monuments, some dating to the Almohad and Merenid dynasties and others that are far older. The earliest known settlement is Sala, occupying an area now know as the Chellah, where we visit the remains of the citadel. Lunch was in a restaurant built into the wall of the Old Citadel –tagine with beef and prunes, followed by mint tea. I am getting the hang of pouring the tea from a great distance without spilling anything – and most of you who know me, know that’s a lie.

We also see the vast minaret of the Hassan Mosque and Royal Mausoleum in Rabat, with four young guards at each corner in wonderful uniforms. We decided that the main pre-requisite for the job was their attractiveness!

Next we explored the lovely walled quarter known as the Kasbah des Oudaias, old buildings all painted in an iridescent blue (traditionally indigo) against a luminescent white wash. Here there is also a lovely view across the water past the Citadel.

In the late afternoon we continued to Meknes, taking a drive through Khamtiss (?) Valley, the wine country. I have tried local wines and the Rose is very good (depending on the brand) as is the red, but so far, the white is to be left alone.

Impressions of Casablanca

2011-05-03T08:05:00.000-07:00

Main Street in Casa Beach in the Corniche/Ain Dab Area

Hotel Suisse has its rooms set around a central courtyard with glass roof.

My room is on the third floor

The bars on the beach fill at around 6pm for drinks (mostly coffee and non -alcoholic). Even at a "European bar" it is mostly the men who fill the bars.

Kids will be kids - and skateboarders often get a gaggle of local girls watching

Date palms line the avenue along the lengthy beach

Patterns in everything - here a sports club.

And another club - with patterned sand castles beside the pool.

Remnants of a "Sports Club", built in better times, line the beach

The beach at Casa is wide and long, and clean

The Gum trees which line the freeway leaving the airport, along with the flat, grey green land on red earth remind me of home.

The rain falls hard and fast, like in a Sydney spring, starved of water for months.

Moroccans seem to have a good sense of humour and smile a lot.

The old “give them a basket of bread and a bottle of water that hasn’t been ordered, and get them to pay a lot for it” trick is alive and well in Casablanca.

Check your change – twice!

“Sports clubs” abound on the seaside – with no-one in them, but security patrolling the gates. These are members only establishments that provide a built-in swimming pool, tennis courts (seen better days) and children’s amenities (as well as some indoor facilities I didn’t have access to check out) and which ruin the pedestrian access to the beach and the view from the promenade.

Beach Football is a national sport, and no-one seems to need a real field/pitch marked out.

It’s hard to order local food when you don’t speak the language (even though you try). Pasta Arabica was the closest I got.

McDonalds CAn be a blessing (and even here I couldn't get what I wanted).

There is a “look” amongst a number of men here that I have not seen elsewhere –tall, olive skinned, short and tight curly hair, even-featured, large dark eyes -and it is very attractive! There are some of the most beautiful women on earth here (which makes the next impression all the more astounding).

Any woman over the age of 35 is rather large of body, probably from eating the fairy floss, waffles, ice cream and or popcorn which seems to be “de riguer” for strollers along the beach. Otherwise, they are dressed in a long coats or must be invisible.

Is it the redish hair, or the fact that I am a woman walking alone (without a long coat) that makes men half my age, as well as those older, stare at me to an uncomfortable extent? Or do they do that to every woman? I have already been hassled by a youth in a group of about four, who seemed to be saying something like “show us you T..s!” (gesturing with his own shirt being pulled off its buttons by a hand either side of the middle) until I rudely put my hand in front of his face and kept it there as he walked along side me. For the record, I was dressed in a loose, long sleeved top with black short cardigan over the top, and long black trousers over flat heeled boots.

After the first incident, I donned my scarf as well, to wrap around my neck and flow loosely over my chest. And still a group of youths in a black car called out to me in French, waving and “hello-ing” –twice, when my walk caught up with the strangled traffic on a Saturday night for a second time. Younger women are walking around, apparently un-accosted, who are rather more scantily dressed and even those wearing a scarf often have a tight top, coat or jumper revealing their “t..s”.

Best to be in the hotel by nightfall.

Arty Pics from the Alcazabar, Malaga

2011-05-02T07:51:00.000-07:00

A headless statue for worship sits inside a niche by the pathway around the fortress.

A mixture of styles and tile work are evident in the fortress

A reconstruction of the kilns found beneath the fort for firing essential daily items as well as tiles

Contemplation pools as seen through the doorway identical to that at the end of the pool, pictured.

patterns include the flowers planted in the garden, as well as the mostly geometric patterns of Islamic culture

Stunning Mosaics and consideration of viewing/access points. This is actually two decorated doorways.

Thick wood and iron doors to protect the privacy of the palace occupants

beautiful paint work and colour sense inside the porticos. Tiles and more tiles

Alcazabar (R) is beside the Teatro Romano (L)

The ever present spire of the "Catedral" (view from the fortress)

Jamon, Jamon - Malaga

2011-05-02T07:50:00.000-07:00

Niche with Santa Maria and flowers found in a side street, Malaga.

Painting by Andy Hope 130 in the Museum of Contemporary art, Malaga (hard to find, but worth the effort!)

Installation and part of the Retrospective Exhibition of Sylvie Fleur at the Museum of Contemporary Art, Malaga

The Cathedral as viewed from the Plaza at night Time (including sea gulls)

Malaga view from the Alcazabar Look out (towards the Bull Ring, one of only a couple authentic rings in Spain)

The rear of the cathedral, at day time

A wonderful Dali-esque addition to the streetscape during the building's renovations

At the last minute, I decided to change plans and leave the residency a day earlier and spend an extra night in Malaga. What a place!

I stayed in the Don Curro Hotel, and could not have chosen better as it was in the best part of the old city, a stroll to the “Catedral” that dominates the city and presides over a very lively plaza (best at night); a short walk to the Alcazabar (if this isn’t a rival to Alahmbra, then I can’t wait to go to Granada – It’s amazing); the Contemporary art museum, the Picasso Museum and his place of birth (the last being the only site I didn’t visit); and, as it turned out bus stations from other cities and to the airport. Although this decision involved a 7 hour trip along the coast instead of a three hour drive in the interior roads (I am still too scared to drive) the day was a really pleasant experience, as well as a test of my understanding of Spanish.

However, a word of warning. The cab driver who took me from the bus stop to the hotel failed to give me the change from a 5Euro (cost was about 3.5E) Oh well, he’s a cabbie… I bought a bottle of water – and the kiosk guy “accidentally” gave me a one and a two Euro as change instead of two 2Euro coins. I asked for the correct amount. And even at the Picasso Museum, the clerk there “accidentally” gave me change of a 10 instead of a 20 and didn’t blink and eye when I picked her up for it. Three for three transactions in the first day - always check your change!

Meeting an interesting French man in the Picasso Museum, whose Spanish was perfect (he was on holiday from working in Granada) was fortuitous, as it meant I could eat something more than “Jamon Bocadillos” (Ham sandwiches) as the menus still baffle me (despite studiously looking up the words I don’t know upon returning from eating anywhere). We enjoyed some great Spanish “Vino Rojas” and Tapas and interesting travel and life stories, before parting company way too late (he is on Spanish time and I must have had a second wind, because I couldn’t believe it was 2am in the morning when I had arisen at 7:30 am).

The next day was raining, but I still managed to find and see a great exhibition at the Muesum de Contemporary Artes by Silvie Fleury; as well as a retrospective of Andy Hope 130’s “Robin Doestoyevsky” (where Batman’s offsider takes a turn as the hero and dons a cape that often borders on historically feminine costume); and part of the Contemporary Art Museum’s permanent collection, which contains a number of Andy Warhol serigraphs and Louise Bourgoise Sculptures, as well as generally very high standard works by other artists. The area must have had some rich patrons in the past.

The rain continued, and so did I, happening upon the Thyssen Museum and deciding it’s welcoming, warm interior was worth the 6Euro admission price. The Museum contains a collection of Spanish artists of the Romantic and Impressionist style and apart from one or two, and a Zurburan in the Great Masters wing (most of the other works were by “anonymous”, so I am not sure about the selection of the name, here) the works were pretty second rate. However, it was interesting to see the rendition of traditional costumes and “daily Life” of the Spanish, a few centuries ago.

After a Menu de Dia (thank goodness for these) of Fish soup and Sardine salad, I took advantage of the siesta and a reviving 90 minute kip, so I finally managed to see the interior of the Alcazabar. I then saw the temporary exhibition of Kippenberger at the Picasso Museum. It was worth the long day required and I am now a fan of this German painter who died way too early (only a few years older than me!)

A read of my book back at the hotel and I sauntered off to a local eatery, deliberately chosen because the only language I could hear was Spanish – bound to be good! Well, the Jamon Bocadillo was actually nice and the red wine (“I’ll have what they’re having”) also good. Still an indecipherable menu!

Drivin' on the freeway with a dark cloud above me...

2011-05-01T08:59:00.000-07:00

View of the Port from Castello in Aguilas

The Castle/ Fort itself

Another view of the Castle - A little over-restored, I think

View towards the port

Aguilas - a cacophany of roofs and buildings - a great cubist painting!

Villacordas Port

After the parade

Plaza Mayor, Vera in the rain, Easter Sunday morning

Blog – Day trip to Aguilas

We followed our first release from the residency with another day trip in the car. It was Easter Sunday and despite spending hours on Google the night before, trying to find where exactly the processions were and at what time - without success -we hoped to catch an amazing procession at Vera, the site where other residents had seen something spectacular on Good Friday. Well- we should’a been there then. A mass with Confirmations was all that was on offer, a quick stroll around the Plaza mayor and the town didn’t tempt us, so we headed off up the coast.

Spanish seaside towns are not attractive when entered by car, as we discovered. They tend to turn themselves towards the sea, and all the high rise development extends further and further from the playa to the roadside. So, the traveller sees the backs of multi -storeyed buildings with lots of washing and unsightly balconies stuffed with forgotten or broken household remnants, but we learnt to ignore this as a sign of the “ciudad” to come.

We discovered where the rich built their houses, as villas lined the playa a few beaches north of Garrucha, and a wide beachfront allowed the convenient positioning of a few cafeteria restaurants on a quiet plot.

We landed at a beach near Villacardos, intending to stroll the playa, until we heard the strands of a band and decided we may yet catch an Easter procession. We “should’a been there an hour ago”. We caught the aftermath of an obviously successful gig, with band members shedding their uniforms (eye candy!) and horsing around on the street. Women in black lace (still no mantilla!) lunched by the paved corridors lined with red plastic chairs and gay umbrellas, filled with friendly locals. The lunch of seafood Paella and Alahmbra beer (fast becoming a favourite) was the best we had tasted and the view over the fishing port pleasant. We spent a good hour and a half enjoying our Easter Sunday and conversation, before fortuitously deciding to continue the trip north along the coast to Aguilas.

I have noticed that the countryside changes quickly in Andalucia – from flat topped hills with obvious geological striation nearer to Mojacar, to volcanic mounds tumbling on top of themselves, to majestic taller mountains lining the road and providing a wonderful view of the ever pleasant sparkling sea nearer Aguilas.This is a great road for driving, as the hairpin turns of the previous day iron out to allow a constant view of the sea and its occasional islands.

Again, the entry into Agilas wasn’t promising, but we discovered a wonderful town with a thriving “Urbano historica” and the Castle at its pinnacle. (But beware, the lift has NEVER worked, so find the road winding to almost the top, otherwise you are in for stairs and more stairs, as we were (so fit!)). The Castillo was the defence centre for the whole of the area around Murcia, so it provides panoramic views over the whole area.

The drive home was just as spectacular – we were so glad we took the journey!

Do Tell -The residency winds up

2011-04-30T20:45:00.000-07:00

Milen at the Piano - Music Night

Artists in residence - (Back) Milen, Hrafnhildur, Elisa, Lilo, Rui (off in a dream, as always),

(front) Nancy, Me and Desiree

The beautiful Desiree, the draw-er from Montpellier

Last night at BebeMe at Mojacar Playa - and dancers in the background!

Showering together - Milen and Hrafnhildur take a break

The Icelander that melts hearts Hrafnhildur

Elisa and Gabrielle. Women with French names- we must be sisters!

Nancy, deep in Conversation - as always

Rui - trying valiantly to explain himslef in English, as always.

Lilo caught smiling - as always

So...what was it REALLY like to be on the artists' residency? Answer: Great! but it's a very intense experience. We were living together for 25 days, give or take a day and that's breakfast lunch and dinner. And artists worth their salt - as these all were - are individuals and reasonably strong personalities. So, I guess we were blessed that we all got along so well, although adjustments were required. Mostly by me, as the only native speaker who wasn't able to be understood (Queen's English got me no-where!). It was an interesting and unusual experience not to be understood (being anglo born and in the middle classes of my country). I was the outsider, language speaking. I had to curb my humour (unless alone with New York and Iceland, whose sense of humour mirrored mine and didn't require an explanation every which way , something I have found, kills a joke stone dead). Worse, I had to gag my opinions - no-one could understand them anyway! And I had to get used to being ignored - actually, no I didn't, as I refused to. So some words were spoken....

Work wise, I hope that I have a itch that needs scratching - I'll have to see when I get home and into the studio. At least it will contribute something to the whole, along with all the art I have seen. I also learned that I really need to move around in the landscape, not just live in it, something that wasn't as easy as it should have been, either because I got lazy and stayed working in the studio; because the mountainous country side meant that nature walks were naturally curbed and hiking up to the Pueblo doesn't count; or because the social nature of the residency took over from the art part and I was always tempted to walk with others or go where they were going. I also re-discovered sculpture and the joy in putting found objects together and giving them a new life.

I learned that poetry is very important in Portugal, France and the United States, with Bulgaria and Germany closely behind. And Australia, due to accent problems both listening and reading, although personally loving to read poetry, was left in the TV room with Iceland and a VHS! (The Crying Room - haven't seen it in years). At least the reading from David Malouf, a wonderful Australian author, poet and librettist, got a Thumbs up from New York (and an embarrassed shuffle from the rest).

And I learned what a wonderful gift to be able to spend time with other artists who all seem to talk the same movies, books, music and passion for art and who share more similarities than differences.

As the time to part grew nearer, we all began to understand what a unique experience this was to have shared part of our lives so intensely with other relative strangers, and to have become better, more tolerant, human beings, if not artists (and this remains to be seen) as a result. Muchas Gracias!

You shoulda seen that!

2011-04-30T09:15:00.000-07:00

All Images: Rui Cóias, Vera Good Friday Procession

Here's some pictures taken by our Portuguese poet, Rui Cóias, of the procession in vera on Good Friday.

I was helping set up for the presentation of our studio work to the locals who had expressed an interest in seeing it. A mix up landed the organised time on Good Friday, so we were committed. Four of us stayed to entertain the guests whilst the rest went on a procession hunt.

Wish I'd seen it - Great photos, Rui.

Presentation Day - Lilo Helga Gericke – Zaki

2011-04-27T14:20:00.000-07:00

Lilo is a German Painter who works in Mixed Media. Whilst in the residency, she was working at a response to the experience, after abandoning the work that she intended to pursue whilst here. It is a very common thing in residencies, it appears, that what you thought you would work on, changes as a result of the experience. And so it has, for at least three of us.

Lilo worked with a number of images and even printed using a dried out cactus, resulting in interesting blue and brown work. And here's the results.