Day 13-14: Essaouira

Nimble fishermen navigate the blue boats in harbour

the Fish markets. We chose our fish then proceeded to the restaurant where they cooked it for us. BBQ Squid - Yum!

Fish on display at the markets

Boats fill the port, awaiting the next morning's outing. The Auction is on in the afternoon

Our Riad - another good room, where everything works, even the shower (a little too over zealously - the whole room is wet!)

Armaments stores now house shops selling the local craft specialty - wood work

Canons line the ramparts

One of the ubiquitous cats of Morocco, here a very healthy one, due to the

proximity of the fish market.

Colourful doorways are also very rustic in this town

We left after breakfast for Essaouira. The narrow streets of Essaouira are ideal for casual exploration. Their size discourages cars, and as we walk through the town it feels as though little has changed since the days of sea pirates. It is a mix of religiously conservative Arabs, French and German tourists, and groovy young locals wearing designer gear. Apparently jummy Hendricks wrote purple haze whilst staying on one of the local islands, and there is a square and garden named after Orson Welles, who made the movie, “Othello” here and spent many months )years?) painting the area as well. It is one of North Africa's most attractive venues and soon we find ourselves slipping into its easy-going rhythm, glad of the escape from frenetic markets. The fishing port, filled with indigo blue and aqua painted boats, is a serious commercial operation and it was fun to observe the daily catch and its subsequent auction. Elsewhere there are numerous shops and several fine art galleries along with a wide variety of restaurants.

We visited the fort where canons still poke through the ramparts, on to a magnificent view of the ocean and rocks beyond; walked along the extensive wall, where the arched armaments store rooms now house woodwork, saw the most astounding overlaid woodwork table that took the cabinet maker 6 months of his life; and caught the sun on our shoulders due to the wide French designed streets.

A quick snooze on the calm beach and it was time for dinner. We had our best meal here, at a waterfront restaurant, great service and wine, for the princely sum of about $35AUD, by far the most expensive yet. I even tried Sea Urchin for the first time and was suitably impressed with its flavour.

Today is a bit of a lay day – I intend to look at the galleries to see what the state of art is here, which is supposed to be the centre of painting for Morocco. I’ll also catch the fish auction and eat at one of the best local restaurants, Elizirs, full of 60’s memorabilia and, from what I saw when making the reservation, some decent art.

Day 10: Skoura-Ait Benhaddou

Fresh Chickens anyone?

The view from the pool at Ait Ben Haddou

Dr Berber, myself and the pink waiter - I gave him desert Berber head wear, he gave me a man's style. Lots of laughs and sad to be leaving.

One of the many kasbahs on the road of a 1000 kasbahs

Hollywood meets Berber at Skoura - a bit of a culture shock between the authentic and the touristy, but a stop on the way is necessary in all this driving.

Our guide shows us the way life was in a Kasbah - at least for the women.

Light plays on the wall of the courtyard or Riad as it is known. Fruit trees and planted for shade.

Knock off time for the extras at Ait Ben Haddou

The real town of Ait Ben Haddou - back to the hawkers but 188 steps to the top was worth the view

View over the area from the ramparts

After a ceremonial "head scarf tying competition" between myself and the "pink waiter" and some more laughs, we said goodbye to the M'goun valley and set off on the fabled 'Road of 1000 Kasbahs'. Our first stop is at Skoura Oasis, home of several privately-owned Kasbahs, where we visit the splendid Kasbah Ameridhl with its extravagant decorations and mud-brick fortifications, and early kitchen and craft implements. The most intriguing was an antique wooden lock that is a pice of sculpture in iself and something I would love to buy if only my 20kgs bag limit would allow.

Continuing our journey we reach Ait Benhaddou, one of Morocco's greatest paradoxes. This place is home to a list of movies made here, including the fight scene from Gladiator where a buffed Russell Crowe proves his manhood in the arena and becomes a favourite of his slave master. Scenes in Star Wars were also shot here, but I wouldn't know, being the only human on Earth who hasn't seen the movies (or four). However, Hollywood aside, it is still, in its own right, one an interesting sight in Morocco with a superb collection of mud-brick kasbahs are without equal. We enjoyed a walk through the old town, waving at the extras from yet another Egyptian movie being shot here, whoo were "storming" the fortress and riding horses towards iconic gates that are used in amny movies, but which open on to nothing. (The Egyptian economy is almost built on its export of movies to the Arab speaking world).

I braved a swim in the pool, which has the most amazing view over the valley, but the roofing and planting of trees was not enough to shelter me from prying eyes - the waiter that just had to walk back and forth along the pool, the man who almost killed himself on the roof of a nearby building trying to get a look - so i quickly dressed and returned to the hotel. I guess it's nothing more than might happen in a SYdney building site, and even though I decided it was their behavioural problem, nt mine and that I was just doing what's natural, it does make me uncomfortable. I think it is sad, for many reasons, that females are so covered up that men will do anything to get a look at a woman, to touch her etc. Frankly, it's not natural.

had another dinner of salads, tangine and fruit.....

Day 11 and 12: Ait Benhaddou-Marrakech

Some of the spectacular scenery en-route to Marrakech

Our Riad in marrakech. Initial delight was tempered by the lack of electricity during the evening, followed by no internet and then no water! Oh the third world!

Trolleys are the only way to negotiate the alley ways in the medina in Marrakech

Shoes shoes and more shoes. And yes, I paid to much for a red pair that I love

Natural, hand-dyeing of the wools for weaving into rugs and scarfs happens in the medina. I was tempted to buy some pigments, but didn't want a spill in my suitcase.

Lanterns hang on the wall near one of the souks in the market

Boxes for carrying gifts to the groom or bride, during the wedding ceremony. It used to go on for days, but the prohibitive expense means that most young people resrtict the celebration to only one day.

Monkeys in the box, awaiting their turn to please the crowd - at the end of a chain. No donations, here!

A business man leans close to hear his fortune told in the market

The market comes alive at night where stalls cook traditional Moroccan food to order.

Every square inch is taken up with sale-able goods.

Natural medicine is available at many stores. I tried the cold cure - it works like a Cold and Flu tablet on speed. Dried me up like an old witch - water, water please???

Spice mountains are also at the market in Marrakech

The concubines quarters, close to the owners bedroom

Tassles of all sizes hang from the roof in a souk

Fine stitching is a feature of many cloths, this one in the museum

Colourful locals, colourful fruit and veg

Berber dancers who busk in the square at marrakech, approaching a tourist

Finally, the Water Carrier

The Square on a quiet Thursday afternoon - the night comes alive as this ia almost the weekend for the locals

Pavillion de la Menara - I found where the locals meet! Olive groves surround the building, and more than a few young lovers were spied holding hands and talking ernestly amongst the trunks of the trees.

The celebrations with the other Peregrine group

We drove for several hours through the winding roads of the Atlas, bound for Marrakech. Again, the scenery is astounding, even through the threatening, leaden skies, and we stopped for photos in jaw dropping locations. The country changes so much! On arrival in Marrakech we cheked into our beautiful Riad hotel, the mirror, bed head, wardrobe and chairs were attention grabbers with intricate metal work inlaid with stone and I’d love to take them home. As soon as we were settled, we headed into the famous Jemaa el Fna, the great square, one of the largest public spaces in the world and unique to Marrakech. Every night it comes alive with snake-charmers, musicians, story-tellers, fire-eaters and hundreds of small outdoor restaurants, though to take a photo can cost as much as 200Dirham each – so the sneaky photography trick of buying a meal in one of the restaurants with a view from the terrace was employed. Everyone seems to be in on the “photography charge”, even veiled ladies. It’s a much easier square to navigate than Fes and the Great Minaret (third largest minaret in Morocco) serves as a handy land mark.

After breakfast the next day, we met our Marrakech local guide and set off on a morning tour of the old medina. We visited the beautiful 150 room Bahia Palace, a splendid mansion built in 1866 for a former slave who had risen to become Vizier of Moulay Hassan Government. The palace for his 24 concubines was handily located to the royal quarters, as was those of his four wives. He ruled Morocco whilst the king’s sons grew to majority. He was eventually ousted by the French who decided to take over the building for their administration. We explored the tranquil inner courtyards, fragrant with orange blossom, and the many salons and chambers that make up this elegant home. We continue to the Marrakech Museum, itself a former palace, which houses a fine collection of Moroccan art and sculpture – saw my first painting displays, some good, some awful, all abstract (yay!)- and we then walked through the streets of the old medina as we make our way back to the Jemaa el Fna. I found the place to buy the Marrakechi (black and white) and Berber hats (wool with geometric shapes) to add to my collection, and the castanets that may have to wait for our return to Marrakech in two days.

After lunch and more spy photography, I jumped the hop on- hop off tour bus to get a better understanding of the city, stopped at a few places and then returned to the Riad, a little tired. The rest of Marrakech seems to be made up of salubrious hotels made from former Riads, being the embassy houses of former foreign diplomats. All in all, Marrakech is a bit disappointing, perhaps from expectations raised by friends who have visited here, or perhaps because of the length of time I have been travelling. For me, Fes had a more exciting Medina, and the countryside is a better experience because of its people.

We celebrated two birthdays and the last night of the other Peregrine group with Pizzas and red wine (we are all a bit ired of the lack of variety in Moroccan food - at least as we know it.

Day 9: A day walk in the M'goun Valley

Drumming in the evening - an influence of Arabic and Berber traditional songs, along with poetry.

The Kasbah we walked to

Spectacular views along the way

Doctor Berber - La'Hassim

Poppy fields also line the valley and we walked through a number of Berber villages. These people of the High Atlas Mountains were the fierce resistance against the French colonisers and are still very protective of their culture and land.

Cheeky berber boys can now count to five in English

A lone Female strikes a pose

Boys walk the alley ways behind the tall walls of the village

Causing a riot in the store - buying lollies

We explored this beautiful area, trekking a 10km circuit that took about 4 hours, under the guidance of La’Hassim, a member of the family that owns the Gite D’Atape where we are staying. Our party down to two after about one area, we walked past Berber villages -red slammed-earth buildings camouflaged into the hillsides with an occasional, astoundingly coloured door. The mosque marks the approach to another village, and some of the houses are very well cared for, with gardens in front and straight fences. Our guide even proudly pointed out one which had wooden windows and was made of very well constructed bricks.

The highlight was meeting Berber children and the occasional adult, along the way, greeting them with “salam alicom” (at least, that’s how I pronounced the Berber for Hello). I had packed some dates for the trek but found that giving them away to the kids was much more enjoyable. And may I say, there are a few more children in the Berber villages that know how to “high Five” and count to five in English now, because of my urge to play with them. The girls are very shy from a concerningly young age, having been taught already, in this very religiously conservative area, that they should not draw attention to themselves. I did, however, catch one of them who smiled happily for the camera and I nearly started a riot when I asked La’Hassim to buy some “bon bons” for the children at the village “Alimentar”.

Throughout the trek, it was patently obvious that the women of the area work very hard, washing clothes in the river, fetching alfalfa for the animals and carrying it in large sacks on their backs, tending to the crops, cooking the meals and keeping the interior of their homes clean and tidy. When I asked what the men do, Atika, our guide, said that they shop once a week for the family….. Apparently, they decide all purchases, including what the women will wear. They hold the money, and the power.

The walk also included the famous Rose Valley, a rich, cultivated area which borders the river flowing from the Atlas Mountains, where “Grain” (wheat) onion, carrot, potato and broad beans (the Berber staples) are grown in small family owned plots. This valley also has wild “damacien” roses growing along the river, providing a truly sensational setting for a long trek. The roses have a distinctive perfume and are harvested for rose water and for the paste used in the Hammam, among other applications.

Another highlight of the day was trying to communicate with La’Hassim, who speaks French, Berber, Arabic, a little Spanish and no English. I know a few French words, a few Italian and Spanish words and I learnt from him a few Berber words, and some Arabic – woah! One language at a time! He gave me the names for river, good, bad, wheat, thank you, and many others I will never remember. And somehow I found out that his pronounced limp – one leg is about 4-6inches shorter than the other and he walks constantly on his toes on this leg, whilst his back swivels around to carry this leg forward- was caused by a fall from a terrace in the mosque. I assume he was not able to get proper medical attention or to get it in time. It causes him pain in his leg and a lot of pain in his lower back, but still he manages to lead this trek! He also managed to apply a “muy intelligente” Berber trick to my foot that was giving me trouble due to an ill-fitting shoe, (no comparison in the pain compared to his, I am sure) so that I was able to finish the trek in relative comfort. “Doctor Berber” is now his nick-name.

We returned to a lunch of Berber Omelette – containing the locally grown vegetables and one egg, mixed with Moroccan spices and cooked in a Tagine dish and very tasty, accompanied by the wonderful freshly squeezed orange juice that is a staple of Morocco. A short siesta followed and an afternoon of drawing this amazing “Panoramique”.

We then had dinner, and a wonderful display of drumming from all the family - apparently all cousins, no brothers, but I can't see how this is possible. However, a great family likeness and all handsome - what's a girl to do? We danced and I was asked to sing, so fortified with a couple of beers (ONLY! I Promise) I sand "father and Son" as Yusef Islam (alias cat Stevens) is due to perform in Rabat in a week or two, so the locals know some of his work. Anyway, the night finished with logic tricks (the kind I used to play in the pub after work with the Engineers) and so , despite the language barrier in the instructions, I solved two of the puzzles to great surprise from the berbers. I had to prove that women are smart, so tried particularly hard. This was one of the highlights of the trip, amongst very generous, very funny , very musical and very beautiful people.