Showing posts with label Midelt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Midelt. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Day 7: Midelt and the Sahara

Drumming around the campfire.

The camp as viewed from the top of the sand dune I climbed

The sunset - a very special moment for Mothers Day in the Sahara

The view from the sand dune

One perfect dune!

Inside the Berber Tent. I slept half the night under the stars.

Our camp - The attendants slept in a similar camp nearby. The real deal! (except there were western toilets. Fair's Fair - it is a holiday!


The Camel Train - I'm on the last one

Our helpful attendants watch us mount these bloody uncomfortable animals! I still have bruises....
The train outside out hotel - awaiting the 1.5 hour trek

View from the hotel terrace - not bad! The camp is for the hotel staff - they really live in these things!


A donkey to market!

The Oasis

Spectacular Scenery - the dam







Today there was a long drive to reach Merzouga, where we dropped off our gear at a simple Auberge, drank mint tea and talked to some of the other group who mirror our tour, and then rode camels into the edge of the Sahara Desert, staying in the Erig reason in a real berber tent and compound. We enjoyed a spectacular sunset after a heart rending, calf muscle screaming hike up a very steep sand dune – to sit in awe and silence at the very tip of the highest dune around. The camp looked like a small jigsaw puzzle from this height, the grazing animals of other Berber compounds only specs on the desert floor. The dunes are stunning, especially at this time of the day, and the camping under a thousand stars, whilst being served a hearty tangine for dinner and, later, entertained by beautiful Berber boys/camel drivers on bongo-like drums was one of the highlights of the tour so far. I as invited to join in on the drums, playing in rhythm with the sounds of berber music, and acquitted myself admirably, such that later, we jammed in a rather strange English/Arabic rap type session whereby I defended the honour our female guide against a (jesting) suggestion that she share the other group’s (male) guide’s tent. I then slept half the night under the stars, something I have never done before, (The sand and lighning eventually drove me into the allocated tent to sleep soundly until an early morning wake up call)

Day 6: From Fes-Midelt

The first sighting of a Midelt Berber - at our hotel! How touristy (but he is a real Berber!)

Colourful shops at a small town along the road from Fes to Midelt. The weather was getting decidedly cooler.

Carcasses hang outside shops in this town known for its kebab/barbecue cooking.
Not much else seems to happen here.

Spectacular alpine scenery and our first glimpse of Moroccan snow

The rock formations in Morocco have to be seen to be believed! There are many colours from gray to green to red.

We stopped for a picnic at a trout fishermen's paradise -and we liked it, too! We bought French brie on long white w\loafes, fresh dates and tomatoes -perfect! - at our first "French-style" supermarket experience

There are many colourful wildflowers along the road - the yellow and purples were my favourite. Scenery changes at almost every bend, and you find yourself anticipating the next "wow!" moment.

A curious Barbury ape.


The Ski town of Ifrane - the local private American Boarding school means that the helicopter pad is kept busy during the term break, so the parents can fit in a little skiing with their offspring!


Leaving Fes we drove south, passing through a variety of spectacular scenery as we made our way towards Midelt. We stopped to in the ski town of Ifrane for coffee, and to see the Barbury apes who live in the forrest but are fairly used to tourist hand outs. We happened upon a small town where kebab was the specialty, with carcasses hanging in the open air from butchers hooks along the streetside kiosks (including a goat which still held on to its head) and the scent of wood-fired meat tantalizing the senses. Midelt is a smallish market town, nestled between the Atlas and Anti-Atlas Mountains, at an elevation of just over 1500m. It’s a perfect spot to break the journey to the Sahara, being a great base for some easy walks. Many of the locals are Berber, and the surrounding countryside is beautiful. After lunch, we stretched our legs for a few hours on an easy hike in the nearby hills of the Merran Gorge, where the locals were extremely friendly and obliging this camera happy trekker with free photos (most Moroccans seem camera shy; if not, we need to pay them 1 -5 Dirhams (approx 1/10 -1/2 cent) depending on their ability to make us feel guilty). Their homes are stacked on top of each other and the hills, and camouflaged, and the washing drying on the rocks of a steep gorge made for colourful shots against a mainly yellow ochre background. More than a few donkey photos, and lone cycler shots were taken, along with photos of curious adolescent girls, sunning themselves on rooftop terraces amongst the satellite dishes (the cost of one dish and wiring is relatively cheap, there are over 200 channels available, and subsequent dishes are free – so the locals everywhere, even in the most remote areas, seem to take exceptional advantage of this). Another wonderful day and a great breakfast followed.

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